English care guide | THE REPTILE PASSION

CARE GUIDE

INTRODUCTION

Crested geckos are lizards that can grow to about eight inches long when they reach adulthood.

They are endemic to New Caledonia, a sunny and temperate island near Australia.

Its ambient humidity is usually between 50 and 80%, depending on the time of day.

Long known under the Latin name of Rhacolactylus ciliatus, the crested gecko was transferred to the genus Correlophus in 2012. It would therefore be part of the same genus as the Roux's Gecko (Correlophus sarasinorum) rather than the same genus as the garogoyle geckos (Rhacodactylus auriculatus), the Mossytail geckos (Rhacodactylus chahoua) and the Giant geckos (Rhacodactylus leacchianus) to which it was previously associated.

Crested geckos are excellent pets because they don't require UVA or UVB lighting, an external heat source, or complicated care. In addition, their great variability in color has generated a lot of interest from the general public. Each year, new breeders produce specimens that blow away many people. This phenomenon partly explains why this species is one of the best known in captivity whilst its wild population from New Caledonia declines each year ...

No matter how fascinating crested geckos are, make sure that you are aware of their life span before you purchase one. Indeed, a healthy crested gecko can live up to 20 years in optimal conditions. If you are not ready to make this commitment, perhaps another reptile is more suitable for you.

Interesting facts :

1. Did you know that crested geckos were believed to have been extinct since 1967 until their rediscovery in 1994? 27 years of ignorance !! Yes, these magnificent reptiles were rediscovered on the Isle of Pines following a tropical storm by Friedrich Wilhem Henkel and his team.

2. The word ciliatus comes from Latin which means fringe or eyelashes.

ANATOMY

LLAMELAE:

Crested geckos are arboreal lizards. Evolution has allowed them to adhere to any surface, whether flat or bumpy.

Indeed, they possess specialized cells called lamellae. These cells have little hairs on them. They are the ones that

allow the geckos to cling to the vegetation of their natural habitat or to the glass of their terrarium. They are located

on the underside of their toes and tail pad.

TAILESS :

As surprising as it may sound, crested geckos have evolved to lose their tails when they feel threatened. Unlike other species that practice autotomy, they are unable to completely regenerate their tails. Only a nub will grow back. BUT WHY DON'T THEY REGENERATE IT? ISN'T THAT HELPFUL? In fact, there are many theories that could explain this phenomenon. The most approved one explains that

the tail of crested geckos is especially useful for juveniles and babies. It would allow them to cling to the branches of shrubs and to the leaves of plants as well as to move faster. In addition, young lizards are also at greater risk of catching the eye of their predators. By releasing their tail, the gecko distracts the predator and thus has more chances of escaping.

In adulthood, however, their semi-prehensile tail slows them down more than anything. Besides, since they

are bigger,they seem less appetizing in the eyes of their predators. All of this goes to shoes that you shouldn't

panic if your pet drops its tail. It will do it no harm and the wound should heal within a few days.

VISUAL DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MALES AND FEMALES

There are few physical differences between immature crested geckos of opposite genders. It is not until they reach the 10-gram range that the first tell-tale signs of the gecko’s sex start to become visible. Indeed, a male’s pores will have become larger in size, making them easy to observe under magnification. A mature male will also have a hemipenal bulge, located behind his cloaca.

A female gecko has none of these characteristics.

Interesting facts :

Some breeders believe that juvenile geckos can be sexed by looking at the size of their cloacal spurs, but this method has been proven unreliable.
A study showed that the pores of males serve as an olfactory marker.

* The pores appear as scales with a black dot inside.

FIRE UP AND FIRE DOWN

Crested geckos possess the ability to change the intensity of their colors depending on their mood or humidity. This is called "Fire up" and "Fire down». Some geckos will show their beautiful colors more often than others. It depends on their personality. Since fired up crested are more eye-catching, here are some tips to help your gecko show its darker colors.

Tip 1: Water your terrarium. Higher humidity triggers the mechanisms responsible for the "fire up".

Tip 2: Feed your gecko some insects. Crested geckos go crazy when they get to hunt down their prey, it puts them in a good mood.

Tip 3: Put your gecko in a small box with few ventilation holes. Moisten it thoroughly and close the lid. Place the box in a dark, quiet room. Come back 15 to 20 minutes later and the gecko should have Fired up.

HABITAT

TERRARIUM VS PLASTIC BIN:

Crested geckos can live in an ExoTerra style glass terrarium or in a plastic tub such as found in stores like Walmart. Of course, in order to choose which option is best for you, it's important to know the pros and cons of each, and that your gecko has no preferences.

TYPES OF SUBSTRATE USED:

There are many suitable substrates for a crested gecko's terrarium. For example, paper towels are adequate for a temporary terrarium, but natural substrates like Eco Earth are more recommended for permanent enclosures.

LIGHTING :

In principle, crested geckos do not require UVB and UVA lighting or heat lamps to live comfortably. They can live very well at room temperature, as long as it stays between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius. (68 to 77 Fahrenheit). A little tip for temperature regulation: Tell yourself that if you're comfortable at room temperature, your geckos are too.

At night, temperature can drop as low as 16 degrees Celsius (60 degrees Fahrenheit) without any problems, but it should not be the constant temperature of the terrarium. Geckos do tolerate colder than hot temperatures better, but extremes are never recommended. If you live in a Nordic country such as Canada, it is possible that such a thing could happen.

If you wish, you can purchase an Exo Terra 25-watt heat lamp or increase the temperature in the room where the gecko is using a thermostat. In both cases, the devices will be enough to ensure the ideal temperature for the thermal regulation of your reptile. On the other hand, make sure that the humidity does not drop too much. It should remain between 50% and 80%.

HUMIDITY :

As previously mentioned, the humidity of a crested gecko's terrarium should be between 50% and 80% at all times. That is why you must moisten the terrarium twice a day: In the morning and in the evening. The humidity should be allowed to drop during the day to around 40% 50% and in the evening it should be between 70% and 80%. If the humidity stays too high during the day, you could promote the growth of mold and bacteria, which would create an unhealthy living environment for your pet.

TERRARIUM SIZE:

For juvenile crested geckos under 5 grams, it is advisable to keep them in a 9L plastic tub with paper towel as a substrate. They will feel more secure in this smaller environment and will have an easier time finding their food. It will also be easier for you to monitor their feces.
For juvenile crested geckos that weigh between 5 and 25 grams, a 12x12x18 terrarium or 16L plastic tub is adequate. They have more room to move around, and it's not too small or too big for them. You can also choose the substrate you prefer at this point, although I prefer paper towel for the smaller geckos.
For adult or adult sub crested geckos (25 grams and more), it is recommended to keep them in an 18x18x18 (final minimum) or 18x18x24 (ideal final) terrarium. You can also choose the substrate you want at this point.

DECORATING THE TERRARIUMS / TYPES OF TERRARIUMS:

There are two types of terrariums: Bioactive or artificial terrariums. Each of these have advantages and disadvantages, but I suggest that beginners leave bioactive terrariums to more experienced herpetologists.

Things you'll need for a bioactive terrarium:

-Isopods (insects that eat feces, mold and decomposing matter)

-UVA, UVB and a heat lamp for optimal plant health and growth

-Adequate substrate for plants ( a mix of eco earth, cypress mulch, carbon, leaves,etc. You can find some of these mixes online and have them shipped to you.)

-Endemic plants to New Caledonia (make sure they are safe for cresties) Here are a few examples: aloe, pothos, philodendron, etc) Here is a link to an interesting website: https://anipassion.com/reptiles/conseils/3642-top-10-plantes-de-terrarium-pour-un-gecko -a-creta

Things you'll need for an artificial terrarium:

-Plants, hides, branches, etc

-Substrate

-Lighting, if needed

*Of course, in both types of terrariums, you will need a food and a water bowl. I always like to provide a shallow water bowl, even though crested geckos often stay hydrated by drinking water droplets.

MAINTENANCE OF THE TERRARIUM:

In order to prevent the spread of diseases, maintenance of the terrarium should be done weekly. This is called "spot cleaning". Just wash the windows with vinegar or reptisafe disinfectant and pick up the droppings. If you have a tropical substrate, you will need to change it every 3 months or so. However, if you are using paper towels as a substrate, I strongly suggest that you change it every week. I also recommend that you wash the decorations once a month (the 30th of the month would be a good idea) using once more vinegar or reptisafe disinfectant.

FEEDING

Crested geckos are omnivorous reptiles. In their natural habitat, they are used to eating fruits (especially in summer, winter in the northern hemisphere), insects (especially in winter, summer in the northern hemisphere) and honey. In captivity, two companies have made our life easier: Pangea Reptiles and Repashy. They invented the CGD (crested gecko diet). It is a powder that contains all the nutrients essential for the development of geckos. To prepare it, you only have to add water. Both companies offer their products in different flavors of course.

Don't forget that crested geckos also need to eat insects. The proteins and fats that they provide them are vital. I know that for some of you, the idea of giving your gecko live crickets or cockroaches may be repulsive. That’s why I advise you to add insect powder to their CGD. This contains the same nutritional value as whole insects and it seems much more harmless. However, keep in mind that powder doesn’t have the same enrichment value as live insects. In order to keep your gecko from putting on weight to fast and to stimulate its cognitive functions, you will need to provide it with other enrichment, such as a variety of plants and decor with different textures and changing the location of its food bowl once in a while. You could also handle it a bit more often (for exercise). *This is mostly applicable to older geckos, I wouldn’t mess too much with hatchling and juvenile geckos, to avoid hindering their growth. *

Note: Even if you feed live insects to your gecko, you can still give it insect powder about twice a week. It’ll only have better stocks of proteins. This is especially beneficial for breeding females.

https://ca.entomofarms.com/products/cricket-powder

I don't recommend feeding your geckos baby food, as these contain too much sugar and don't have all of the nutrients that are essential for your pet's growth. You would risk serious health problems or even obesity in the long term.

HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT SIZE OF CRICKETS:

To choose the right size of crickets, just measure the width of your gecko's head. If the cricket is smaller than the width of your gecko's head, it will not have a problem passing through the reptile's digestive system and will not cause an impaction.

THE IMPORTANCE OF SUPPLEMENTATION:

When feeding your gecko, DON'T NEGLECT supplements! It is very important that your reptile has access to calcium D3 and multivitamins at least 3 times a week for calcium and once a week for vitamins. These two supplements prevent chronic diseases like MBD (metabolic bone disease)

GUTLOADING INSECTS

It is very easy to gutload your insects. You only have to offer them fresh vegetables or fruits at least 24 hours before feeding them to your crested gecko. Thus, the good nutrients absorbed by the insetcs will be passed on to your gecko. It will therefore be in better health.

To coat your insects with calcium or vitamin powder, simply put them in a resealable plastic bag and add the desired supplement. Brew and voila! Your insects are ready to be eaten!

*Note: Don’t shake them too hard. You don’t want them to be fully coated with powder. You want them to be supplemented, but if they become completely white, they will, for one, become less appetizing for your gecko and die quicker. Why? Insects breathe through pores of their exoskeleton. If these pores become obstructed with powder, the insect will struggle to breathe, thus reducing its energy. It won’t move as much, and chances are, your gecko won’t even notice it’s there. Plus, if your gecko does notice the insect, it probably won’t eat it, since they will smell the calcium/vitamins and not the insect itself. Who would want to eat a mouthful of dry powder? Definitely not me. The same goes for your geckos.

FEEDING FREQUENCY:

Depending on their age, crested geckos require different feeding schedules.

BABIES: Baby geckos usually won't eat until they shed for the first time, that is, not for a few days. You can give them a small amount of CGD each day. Don't be surprised if you don't see them eating. But as long as they are pooping, they are eating. I do not recommend feeding insects to your newborn babies that are younger than two weeks old. (around 2,5g) Few insects are suitable to their size.

JUVENILES: Juvenile geckos that weigh more than 5g may start to eat a few small crickets (2-3) about 1 or 2 times per week. It all depends on your judgment and your gecko's appetite. I recommend that you continue to offer them a small amount of CGD every day. But you can start giving it to them less often if you notice that your pet eats every other day for example.

ADULTS: On average, adult crested geckos eat their CGD a few times per week (2-3 times). You can also give them 4-6 medium crickets or supplemented adults 1-2 times per week. Again, this depends on your individual gecko.

BREEDING

Okay, now you are crested gecko experts, you’d like to try your hand at breeding. While this sounds like a fun challenge to complete, it is important that you breed your geckos because you love the species and not for profit. Indeed, the crested gecko market is almost saturated, and females can lay up to 24 eggs per year. If your home ever becomes overrun with young crested geckos because you are unsuccessful in selling, make sure they are reptiles that you love.

MATERIAL REQUIRED FOR BREEDING:

-An incubation substrate (perlite, vermiculite, super hatch)

- An incubator (especially if you live in a Nordic country)

- A terrarium large enough for several geckos (18x24x24 or 60qt tub)

- Bins for babies + decorations

- Food suitable for breeders and their offspring

- A veterinarian specialized in reptiles (you never know!)

THINGS TO KNOW:

The mating season for crested geckos usually lasts from February to October in countries that have four seasons and all year in countries that have two seasons.

Crested geckos reach sexual maturity around the age of one, but before breeding them you need to make sure that both the female and the male have gained enough weight. A female that is ready to breed should weigh at least 35 grams before being introduced with a male. If she is too young, she will still produce eggs, but the eggs risk killing her, as her body is not yet ready to bear them. The weight of the male does not matter, but it should be above 30 grams, so that the male is massive enough to hold on to the female during mating.

I recommend that you introduce the male into the female's terrarium, so that the latter is not even more confused or stressed than she is already by the arrival of an intruder in her territory. The male will not have too much difficulty finding the female, he will easily locate her thanks to her pheromones.

Provide a nest box filled with moist substrate for your female. A suitable laying site will prevent egg binding (dystocia) and reduce the risks of the female laying in her water bowl, where her eggs would quickly rot.

MATING:

Mating usually takes place at night, when the geckos are most active. The male will chirp to let the female know his intentions, and if the female is receptive, she will respond and usually stay fairly still. She may be vibrating her tail a bit. It's normal. The male will approach the female and begin to bite her crests, to grab hold of her and introduce one of her hemipenes into her cloaca. The aggressive behavior is completely normal, but if you feel the situation is escalating or if the female seems to be running away from the male, you can separate them and reintroduce them later. If everything seems to be going well though, you can leave the male with the female for a week and then separate them. This should give him plenty of time to do his job. Short romantic sessions work great too.

FEMALE REST:

After the mating season, females will have exhausted a lot of their body's resources. Although they do not need a period of rest with colder temperatures like the majority of other reptile species, it is good to give them a few months per year without contact with a male when they can replenish their reserves of calcium and protein. This is why you will need to give them supplemented crickets more often. This will help them gain their weight back and be ready for the next season. Some breeders claim with certainty that females do not secrete hormones that attract males in winter (in the Nordic countries) and therefore you can keep them together all year round. Personally, I am against this claim, because in the wild, geckos are solitary animals that only encounter each other during mating season. This, therefore, creates stress for the two animals which could even fight. Stressed animals are not happy animals ...

HOW DO I KNOW IF THE FEMALE IS GRAVID?

Physical signs: The female will have a roundness in the lower part of her abdomen. Towards the end of her "gravidness" you will see the eggs in her womb. A smart trick is to put her on a flat surface. If you can see her belly, there's a good chance she's gravid.

Psychological signs: A gravid female will stay near her lay box. A few days before she lays the eggs, she will surely dig. Also, you will notice a change in her appetite. Usually, at first, they stuff themselves, then they stop eating altogether a few days before laying. Also, they will be more aggressive and will defend their lay box. Eventually, most will no longer climb their plants, but will stand on the ground, as their eggs are heavy.

COLLECTING THE EGGS:

A few weeks after fertilization, the female will visit her lay box, in order to prepare to lay. You can start searching the lay box for eggs a month after mating. When you find eggs, be careful not to turn them! This could detach the embryo inside the egg and the baby could drown in its fluids.

But how do you know if the eggs are fertile?

To find out if the eggs are fertile, just go to a dark room and put a flashlight under the egg. You can turn it gently from left to right until you see a small red ring appear. This means that the egg is fertile. On the other hand, if is all yellow inside,

it means that it is infertile, as in the photo. Slugs generally have a less well calcified shell, an oval shape, a

smaller size and a soft, even gelatinous texture.

If you are unsure of the fertility of the egg, incubate it anyway. It won't hurt it. The famous saying is: Incubate ‘til there’s no debate.

Breeder's advice: I advise you to keep a register of your eggs, especially if you have several females. If ever an extraordinary mutation were to occur, it would be a shame if you could not trace its origins. You can therefore enter the name of the parents, the laying date, the expected hatching date, the hatching temperature, etc.

WHICH INCUBATION SUBSTRATE TO CHOOSE?

There are three excellent substrates for incubating your eggs. Here are the pros and cons of each, so you can make an informed choice based on your needs.

HOW TO PREPARE THE SUBSTRATE:

No matter which incubation substrate you choose, the preparation is similar. Just add water and let the substrate absorb it. A few minutes should be enough for the acrylite and vermiculite. For perlite, it suffices to make a preparation containing 2 parts of substrate for 1 part of water. All mediums should be damp enough to form a ball when you squeeze it, but no water should ooze out of it. Finally, place the substrate in a plastic container with a few holes for ventilation. Remember to fully ventilate the eggs at least once a week to prevent mold. Add water if you notice the substrate is getting too dry.

AT WHAT TEMPERATURE SHOULD I INCUBATE THE EGGS?

There are several ways to incubate the eggs. It is possible to leave them in the female's terrarium (although not recommended, because the conditions are not controlled and the female could devour her young when they hatch), incubate them at room temperature or use an incubator. In all cases, temperatures should be between 20 and 29 degrees Celsius. Both extremes are not recommended for stable embryonic development.

Some breeders claim that crested geckos are a species that are subject to TDSD (Temperature dependent sex determination). This would mean that the sex of a gecko would be related to the temperature at which it is incubated. They say warmer temperatures result in more males and lower temperatures in more females. However, this theory requires more research to be definitively confirmed or disproved.

Also, keep in mind that the hotter the temperature, the faster your baby geckos will hatch. Like everything, there is a flip side. Their structure may be fine, their colors vibrant, of course, but they will be much smaller and fragile, which could shorten their life expectancy. Don't incubate them at 20 degrees Celsius either, although longer incubation may seem beneficial, I don't believe you feel like waiting 6 months for your babies to hatch. Especially since there are risks of malformations too. In short, a temperature of 23 to 25 degrees Celsius seems to be ideal for the development of babies. The distribution of the sexes will be more or less equal, their structures will be beautiful, their colors correct and their weight normal.

However, if you want even better results, I recommend increasing the temperature of the incubator slightly at the end of the incubation, because the colors are the last elements that form before hatching. This will create more vibrant colors. WARNING! Do not increase the temperature by more than one degree, as temperature fluctuations can cause deformities or worse, be fatal, if extreme and repetitive. This is why I consider that the purchase of an incubator is the best way to ensure the good development of new living beings to come.

If all goes well, you should see the eggs expand as the fetus grows inside. You may not notice it, but when your females lay another clutch, you will easily notice the difference.

EGG ILLNESSES

Unfortunately, it sometimes happens that certain problems occur during incubation. For example, mold can appear, as well as “egg windows” and even egg denting. Fortunately, it is possible to prevent and cure these little problems.

Although some eggs may seem like a waste of time, it is possible that they will hatch anyway.

For example, here is an image of Aurora"s eight clutch, laid on August 10, 2020. As you can see, the eggs are irregular in shape and have a slit in their middle, in addition to two pointed ends. Even though their whiteness was immaculate, I had doubts about their fertility. So I decided to candle them (I put them under a flashlight to see the inside of the egg) and I took a very nice photo of the embryos inside! Ah! How beautiful is nature in its mysteriousness!

The rule of thumb to make sure you don't miss anything is to incubate until you have no doubts about the fertility of the egg. It must really smell bad or that fluids start to ooze for the death / non-presence of the embryo to be noted beyond any doubt.

HATCHING

After two or three months of incubation, your little crested geckos will begin to hatch. It is a very exciting time for any new breeder and that is why it is important to be prepared for it.

Babies can take between sixty and a hundred days to hatch, depending on the incubation temperature. Don't worry if you don't see any signs of hatching after 2 months, if the egg still looks healthy, there's a good chance the baby inside is too.

However, if a young gecko hatches, but not its clutchmate, then you may need to intervene. Some babies develop with a mild abnormality that can be fatal if not caught on time. Normally babies have a special tooth that helps them pierce the shell of their eggs, but sometimes some of them don't. If you don't open their egg, they will die. If you want to save them, you shouldn't wait more than 24 hours. After that, it will probably be too late. To do so, you just have to take a sterile razor blade and cut a small window in the shell of the egg. There may be some blood, don't worry, this is normal. You did not just cut the baby, but the veins that fed it. There will also be a lot of clear liquid, it is literally the same as a chicken egg.

If the fluid is whitish or cloudy, there is a good chance that the baby has not fully developed. You can try touching it with tweezers to see if it reacts, but let's say the odds aren't really on your side. However, if all is well, you can leave the baby in peace, it should be able to come out on its own, now that you have created an opening for him.

NEVER FORCE A BABY GECKO OUT OF ITS SHELL! You can create an opening yes, but give the baby time to absorb the rest of the yolk (egg yolk). Otherwise, it would be devastating for it.

Not intervening is also a possibility. If you don't want to do anything invasive, you can always try to stimulate a gecko to hatch by leaving its sibling in the box with it. Sometimes the stimulation can signal to them that it is time to hatch. Take note, however, that this situation will only work if the second baby is a little lazy and not if it doesn’t have an egg-tooth.

This subject is quite controversial. Some people believe that it is best to let natural selection take place, while others prefer to save babies, since they will live in captivity anyway and their genes are unlikely to end up in the wild. This choice is based on your values and convictions. It's very personal. Don't feel bad if you go for a different option than other breeders. They have their opinion and you have yours. Do what you think is best for your geckos. This is the best advice I can give you.

CARING FOR HATCHLINGS

Babies require the same basic care as adults, so you can go back to the section above. However, there are some special features that you should know about.

Separate your babies. The reptilian community agrees that you can put multiple baby geckos in the same terrarium, but in my experience, I don't recommend it. Babies are voracious and can intimidate one another. One will necessarily become bigger than the other and will take priority over food, putting the others in an uncomfortable position. Nip tails can also occur. For those who do not know what it is, it is an act of cannibalism. Babies mistake the tip of the tail of their clutch mates as an insect. In short, some find themselves amputated of their tail pad. Let's say that if you want to avoid the possibility of an infection, a possible visit to the vet and the general stress of your geckos, separate them from birth, they are far from being sociable ...

2. I suggest you create habitats in 5.9 L (6.2 qt) plastic boxes. Smaller terrariums are easier to clean and provide a sense of security for newborns. You can punch holes for ventilation in the sides and add some decorations. Do not forget about a rough object, such as a shell to help babies shed. At their age, they shed very often, and believe me, removing pieces of skin from babies no longer than your index finger is not a simple task ...

3. I also recommend that you use paper towels as a substrate for your babies. At their age, if they consume a little soil, they will have more difficulty passing it than adults, leading to a risk of impaction (see Diseases). Plus, the paper towel is easier to change, easier to clean, and white, which makes it easier to tell whether the babies are pooping or not.

4. FEED BUGS. When I first got in the hobby, I thought it wasn't necessary. I was wrong, very wrong. Babies (2 to 10 g) have a very high demand for protein, which is what keeps them growing. The Repashy is not enough for their needs, even if it is supplemented with cricket powder. Don't make the same mistake I did. Babies won't grow up otherwise. My first year of breeding, 4 babies hatched. I raised them the same way as I did with their parents, with the right humidity, temperature and food.

But their babies didn’t start growing until I started giving them crickets. At 1 year old, they now weigh 3 and 4 g. This is not normal or good for their health. I fear for their future development, despite them being active and showing encouraging behavior. Moral of the story: wait about 2 weeks and then start giving insects. Don't make the same mistake, it's really not pleasant. It will save you a lot of confusion, anxiety and regret.

5. The humidity could be a little higher for newborn babies, this helps them shed.

DISEASES

Just like any pet, geckos can get sick. Even though this is a rare phenomenon, it is your duty as their owner to take care of their health, so that your little reptilian companions can live as long as possible, and this, in optimal conditions. So here is a summary of the main ailments you may have to face one day.

1. Metabolic bone disease

Causes: Metabolic bone disease is a bone disease that causes deformities in many species of reptiles. It is easily avoided if the proper levels of calcium and vitamins are met.

Symptoms: Deformed limbs, a hump, scoliosis, etc. Usually the disease is not as advanced as in the pictures above, but it is still detrimental to the health of the animal and an undeniable proof of neglect.

Treatment: Unfortunately, there is no treatment for this disease. However, it is possible to slow it down or stop its progress, but there is no turning back.

2. Stuck shed

Causes: Low humidity in the gecko's terrarium and / or lack of a rough surface to help the gecko shed.

Symptoms: A piece of skin that remains attached to the gecko after it finished shedding. Pay extra attention to their toes. Less visible, the pieces of skin can block blood flow and cause amputations.

Treatment: Give a bath to the gecko for 15 min. The bath consists of heavily moistening a waterproof box and placing the animal inside. NEVER PUT YOUR GECKOS IN A LIQUID BATH, THEY CANNOT SWIM AND WILL DROWN. Then you can take a cotton swab and gently roll the pieces of skin until they come off. If it's too difficult and the skin doesn't constrict anything, you can let nature do it, when the gecko will shed again, everything should come off, if it doesn't happen before that on its own, while the gecko was moving / scratching against something.

3. Impaction

Causes: The geckos have eaten too much substrate fibers or an insect that was too big for them. Quick reminder: Crested geckos should not eat an insect that exceeds the width of their head.

Symptoms: Loss of appetite, weight loss, stiff and distended abdomen, decreased bowel movements, lethargy.

Treatment: Hope that the gecko is able to pass the mass on its own. Unfortunately, an impaction is often fatal. In many cases, it requires the intervention of a veterinarian, but it is very expensive and without a guarantee.

4. Prolapse of a hemipenis / cloaca

Causes: Lack of moisture after mating, the gecko was affected with light impaction / egg binding and strained too much to expel either poop or eggs.

Symptoms: Organ outside of the body.

Treatment: Soak the organ in a sugar solution to reduce inflammation. Then try to massage the organ inside the body. A prolapse is an emergency. It is best to consult a veterinarian. If the tissue ever dies, amputation will be necessary. This is only possible for the hemipenes, as they are not a vital organ.

5. Egg binding

Causes: No lay box available, calcium deficiency, low humidity.

Symptoms: Lethargy, loss of appetite, distended and hard stomach, weight loss. Dystocia can be suspected if the female is gravid and has still not laid her eggs after more than a month after mating or after laying her last clutch. (in Quebec, females do not normally lay eggs in the winter since it’s too cold)

Treatment: Exercise the female more to strengthen her muscles, injections of oxytocin (works best within 24 hours of dystocia) and surgery. This is a very critical situation that often becomes lethal if not taken care of quickly.

6.Parasites

Causes: Contamination by another animal or by a carrier insect. Hence the importance of quarantining new geckos and feeding your crickets. They can develop cannibalistic tendencies if they don't have enough to eat.

Symptoms: Loss of appetite, weight loss, vomiting, diarrhea, etc.

Treatment: A fecal test to determine which parasites are involved. The vet will then prescribe medication to treat the infection. * Note * Crested geckos naturally carry the bacteria that causes salmonella. This is why it is important to wash your hands after handling your pet.

7. Nip tails

Causes: Keeping several baby geckos together in the same terrarium.

Symptoms: A missing piece of babies' tail.

Treatment: The tail will not grow back, but it is important to watch the injury so that it does not become infected. Most of the time, everything is cured without intervention. Should anything ever happen, DO NOT APPLY POLYSPORIN! It's poisonous to geckos. Rely on your vet. He may amputate your entire gecko's tail.

8. Stunted growth

Causes: Lack of protein, calcium and UV in young subjects, parasites, a large terrarium, cold temperature.

Symptoms: Very little growth.

Treatment: Have the gecko examined at the vet. If you do everything right, your gecko may simply grow very slowly or have parasites.

9. Floppy tail syndrome

Causes: Lack of calcium. Studies have been performed and their results show a certain correlation between metabolic bone disease and floppy tail syndrome.

Symptoms: When your gecko is laying flat on the glass, its tail hangs forward.

Treatment: If the syndrome is not a problem for your gecko, there is nothing you can do. But since in the majority of cases, this syndrome is related to spinal issues, you can simply amputate the tail at your vet. It will help the gecko to use its autotomy mechanism. It won't feel anything. Giving a little more calcium could also help strengthen your gecko’s bones.

10. Respiratory infections

Causes: High humidity or poor cleanliness of the terrarium.

Symptoms: Hissing sounds when the gecko breathes. Do not mistake this with any of the sounds geckos can make. The whistles are regular and controlled, the hissing sound is not. Here is a link to a sound that geckos make for still unknown reasons: https://youtu.be/DFG2URtWp5k

Treatment: Antibiotics prescribed by the veterinarian. Also try to reduce the humidity in the terrarium to prevent this from happening again.

11. Mites

Causes: Most of the time, the gecko is already affected by it when purchasing.

Symptoms: Lethargy, black dots under the armpits or under the chin.

Treatment: An antibiotic sold in pet stores. Instructions are written on the product.

* PLEASE NOTE THAT SOME OF THESE DISEASES WILL NOT BE YOUR FAULT. SOMETIMES YOU BUY A GECKO THAT IS ALREADY SICK. IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW THE SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF ILLNESSES BEFORE PURCHASING TO AVOID BAD SURPRISES.*

12. Other congenital deformities:

Causes: Genetics, temperature variation during incubation.

Symptoms: Deformed limbs, humps, etc.

Treatment: Unfortunately, there is nothing to be done. Some are lucky and have deformities that do not handicap them too much. With any luck, these will live their lives normally. If you sell them, make sure that the adopted family does not plan to breed them. It is important to prevent the mutation from being passed on to subsequent generations, even if there are no physical manifestations of the deformity in resultant offspring.

If, on the other hand, babies are not eating and seem to be in pain, you will have to make the difficult decision to alleviate their suffering. You can use the euthanasia services of a veterinary clinic or even cull them yourself. Culling is the process on euthanizing an animal. Most people choose to do this by crushing the reptile’s skull. This is one of the quickest and less painful methods. Killing an animal is a very difficult ordeal to go through, but sometimes it is the most humane decision to make.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Thanks a lot for taking the time to read this crested gecko care guide. It can only mean that you are a very responsible owner, and we congratulate you. Please note, however, that the advice given in this document comes from our personal experience and can thus differ from that of the other members of the community. Many informations nevertheless come from various videos and books. For a more detailed liste of our sources, please consult our Bibliography.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Youtube Channels:

1. YOUTUBE, « Snake Discovery», https://meet.google.com/fxa-hkyz-swz, October 12th 2020.

2. YOUTUBE,« Sostic», https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChQB5zYmNKwxxcCxqzqE6Xg, October 12th 2020.

3. YOUTUBE, « Tikis geckos», https://www.youtube.com/user/TikisGeckos, October 12th 2020.

4. YOUTUBE, « Tyler Rugge », https://www.youtube.com/user/tylerrugge, October 12th 2020.

5. YOUTUBE, « Altitude Exotics», https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiWItlo7BQR5lJI0ZoJE86w,October 12th 2020.

6. YOUTUBE, « Leopard Gecko», https://www.youtube.com/user/leopardgeckotalk, October 12th 2020.

7. YOUTUBE, «Jeffrey Riberio», https://www.youtube.com/user/Jribeiro953, October 12th 2020.

8. YOUTUBE, « Clint's reptiles », https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCH18915fTE6yZzKrqdea8RQ, October 12th 2020.

9. YOUTUBE, «Dav Kaufman», https://www.youtube.com/user/HerpersTV, October 12th 2020.

Websites:

1. WIKIPÉDIA, «Crested geckos », https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Correlophus_ciliatus, October 12th 2020.

2. REPTILUS PROJECT, «Crested geckos», http://www.reptilus-project.fr/pages/fiches-d-elevage/gecko-a-crete.html, October 12th 2020.

Books:

1. BLACK, Adam, Crested Geckos, A complete care guide to Rhacodactylus, New Jersey, TFH Publications Inc, 2005, p.10 à 119.

Images: